We offer a variety of services, from general maintenance to performance modifications and engine building. In addition, we provide local and remote tuning services. Our services page provides a bit more detail, found here: Equilibrium Tuning Services

We also offer a growing variety of products for the VAG/MQB platform. From Turbochargers to coil-over suspension, fuel delivery systems, intakes, exhausts, etc. Our product line may change without notice, so please review our sales page for additional product information and cost.

Our tuning packages vary, depending on the customer's specific requirements. We utilize Cobb AccessTuner Pro software to build a custom rom file, which is then loaded by the customer onto their Cobb AccessPort. From there, the customer can flash the rom to their vehicle. Our basemaps for the VAG/MQB platform start at $175 for ECM and DSG tuning. Custom E-tuning (pro-tunes) start at $500. Map updates for existing basemaps are $25 for ECM and TCM, and options to base maps (adding burbles in sport for example) start at $75. 

Our ordering page can be found HERE.

COBB Tuning offers custom features on most if not all platforms they support. These features vary depending on the make/model of the vehicle. For the MK7/7.5 platform, these features are explained in detail here: Cobb Custom Features for MK7 and MK7.5 

Our personal recommendations for features:

- Launch Control: Select Cobb LC if you have a GTI or A3 or a 2019+ GLI as this builds boost on launch whereas the OEM style does not. Golf R and S3 the OEM DSG based LC is better and builds boost on launch.

- Cobb Traction Control: For FWD vehicles such as the GTI and GLI, Cobb TC is a good option. For AWD cars that do not suffer from poor traction, you want the least amount of nannies possible, so no need.

- Burbles (Normal or Sport or both): We personally do not care for burbles as it slightly reduces drivability in whatever mode it is active in. Which you can feel on shifts or deceleration to a certain degree. Some are more sensitive to it than others in noticing. We personally love smooth drivability and not noise makers that draw attention so while this is popular for many, we just prefer none.

- Cobb Flat Foot shifting (Manual cars only): Allows you to shift at wide open throttle without lifting off the gas. Takes practice to do it properly.

In addition to these features, we can enable options such as “NASKD”, or No Auto-upshift, KickDown control (DSG equipment, manual-mode selected). Kickdown disabled/enabled controls the gear change when you hit 100% throttle input (or pass the 80% threshold / pedal “stop”) If you disable this, then the car will not downshift to a lower gear when you plant the pedal to the floor in manual mode (great for doing roll racing or on a dyno so you can stay in the gear you are wanting) nor will it auto shift to the next gear when you hit the limiter (good to make sure you don't accidentally double shift), it will stay in that gear until you manually shift. Note: This does NOT mean safeties are removed where the DSG will stall or over rev and break the motor. The RPM limiters are still in place and will simply bounce off the RPM limiter until you shift and if you are slowing to a stop it will downshift as needed.

Leaving it enabled like stock means the OEM configuration is enabled so you can potentially double shift and lose acceleration if you accidentally shift when the computer also is trying to initiate a shift. And if you are trying to do a roll in a single gear it will downshift on you when you hit the kickdown switch.

This is a question asked all too frequently, and while we’d love to give you a specific number, no two cars are alike. Even taking the car’s modifications out of the equation, there are other variables such as weather, elevation, fuel quality, etc. that come into play. With that being said, there are ranges that most vehicles will see depending on the type of dyno used and how it is calibrated, if the dyno operator properly has the RPMs read, if they have adequate fans, etc.. given standard bolt on modifications. For example, on my personal R, I have taken it to one Dyno and it read 330whp and 300ftlbs of torque on a dyno dynamics dyno. I then took it to another shop with a dynojet and it showed 362whp and 394ftlbs of torque. Same tune, Same mods, and it was even worse conditions with the higher numbers. So therefore while seeing fancy high dyno numbers is nice, what matters is the difference vs stock baselines on the same dyno and conditions to show you a true representation of the changes made. Dyno is a tool after all :)

Below are ranges typically expected based on various end users who take their car to the dyno. This range combines 91 and 93 for pump gas (93 could generally see roughly 10hp greater than 91 on average) and ethanol ranges is for both e30 and e85 staged tunes as they target the same power but e85 is made for ease of not having to mix. These are averages and if a dyno is very happy reading it can be higher or if it is a true heart breaker dyno it can be lower.

•  Stage 1 Pump gas: GTI (stock is20 turbo) - 270-300whp / R (Or is38 GTI)- 320-350whp

• Stage 2 Pump gas: GTI (stock is20 turbo) - 300-330whp / R (Or is38 GTI)- 350-380whp

• Ethanol: GTI (stock is20 turbo) - 330-360whp / R (Or is38 GTI)- 380-420whp

• Vortex Standard: Pump gas- 400-450whp / Ethanol - 500-550whp

• Vortex XL: Pump gas - 410-470whp / Ethanol (blends or up to full e85) - 500-575whp

Something people don't generally understand is that the stock tune is set up to provide very consistent power across a wide range of conditions (temperatures, elevations, even fuel qualities). It can do this because it isn’t pushing the limits of the turbo, and only does so when needed in order to meet torque targets. An unmodified car with no dyno correction will generally dyno within 5whp in 30F weather at sea level or 90F at 2000ft.

A performance-oriented tune has to take a different approach. The idea here is that we try to provide the optimal available power for any particular condition. When it’s cold and the car is at sea level, it will make significantly more power than when IAT's are out of control and/or the car is at elevation.

This has to be the case because we are generally trying to use the turbo to its maximum potential, so there is no room to increase boost further when conditions are sub-optimal. If you were to dyno the stock tune followed by our tune in cold weather with good cooling, you'll see the advertised gains.

When you dyno both in hot weather, or with IAT's that are out of control, the stock tune will compensate and make similar power because of this ability to compensate; our tune has to drop power somewhat to stay within safe ranges. In this case, the gains are less apparent due to lack of compensation in unfavorable conditions.

At this time EQT does not currently offer tuning services on Cobb AccessPort or EcuTek for the Mk6 or Mk6.5 in any variation of model or trim.
Including;

Mk6 GTI (CCTA/CBFA)
Mk6 GLI (CCTA/CBFA)
Mk6 Golf R (BPY)
Mk6.5 GLI (Gen3 Non-MQB)

While the Mk6 GTI is supported on Cobb AccessPort, EQT does not tune these vehicles due to their extremely limited factory fuel system and various other issues native to the Gen 1 TSI Engine.

If you are serious about tuning your Mk6 GTI with EQT, you can always reach out to sales@eqtuning.com and discuss the implementation of a Syvecs ECU and Multi-Port Injection. However, that avenue is extremely cost extensive and should only be carried out by an experienced technician.

STEP 1 - REMOVE FILTER
Remove the three screws holding the filter to the AToM Case. Remove the air filter
from case. Handle it delicately and with the dirty side facing the ground, gently tap to
dislodge any loose dirt or debris. Repeat until large debris is dislodged.

STEP 2 - APPLY CLEANER
Apply Synthetic Air Filter Cleaner generously to both sides of the filter, focusing more
on the dirty side. Let it soak for 10 minutes, ensuring it doesn't dry on the filter.

STEP 3 - RINSE FILTER
To cleanse the filter element, gently wash it with lukewarm water, ensuring the flow is
directed from the clean side outward to expel accumulated dirt. Lightly press the hose
with your fingers if needed to increase water pressure. Continue repeating this process
until the water passing through the filter is entirely free from any dirt or debris.

STEP 4 - DRY & INSPECT
Following rinsing, carefully shake off any surplus water. Let the filter air dry naturally, or
expedite the drying process with compressed air. Inspect the filter thoroughly for any signs
of damage, including breaks in the mesh and cotton. If damage is detected, replace the filter
with a new one. If no damage is found, proceed with reinstalling the filter.

STEP 5 - (OPTIONAL) - OIL THE FILTER
If your vehicle is operated in arid areas or is exposed to fine dust particles, we recommend
using a filter oil coating to enhance filtering. Follow the instructions included with the oil in
order to ensure you use the appropriate amount of oil when applying.

Background codes don’t normally trigger a check engine light, because they are not primary malfunction items. Depending on the malfunction, they can however prevent readiness monitors from executing/passing. In addition, when flashing/re-flashing a map, sometimes you will see U112E/* codes, which are communications fault codes; resultant of the AccessPort reflashing procedure. If you receive MIL, scan for codes and annotate them or take a photo before clearing fault codes. Provide us with the codes and any logging you have when the MIL presented for diagnosis. EPC lights are more important than MIL lights. These issues cause your car to degrade into protection mode, as there is something important out of tolerance that needs to be addressed immediately. Do not attempt to drive the vehicle unless you are certain the EPC is a condition that will not harm your vehicle.

If you have an accessport with DSG capabilities already

With the ignition on, and the AccessPort connected to the OBDII port, back out of the gauges display, and scroll up to “Help” and select it. Then, select “About Accessport”, and your ECM/TCM ID’s are displayed under installed Vehicle and DSG ID (BE SURE YOU HAVE MARRIED IT TO YOUR DSG ALREADY! Especially if you bought used, do not use the previous owners DSG ID when ordering). "Serial Number Sticker" is your serial number. Always use what it says digitally in that spot, as sometimes the physical sticker on the outside of the accessport can be hard to read from letters smudging.

If your accessport is NOT DSG unlocked, where you cannot see anything DSG with it or flash a Cobb DSG tune, you need to purchase a DSG unlock before you can flash a DSG tune to it but you can use VCDS or OBDeleven to see your ID still.

If you are using VCDS or OBDEleven

You can use this handy guide from our friends at 034 motorsports.

Click here --> How to find ID's

This is another “what works for some, may not work for others” topic to address. It’s often overwhelming to see the sheer number of monitors you have to choose from, when setting up your AccessPort for gauge views. For starters, Air Fuel Ratio (AFR) monitoring should be a given, followed by Intake Air Temp (IAT), Coolant Temp, Oil Temp, Relative Manifold Pressure, and Knock Average. Acceptable ranges as follows: 

* AFR: 11.9~12.2 WOT (wide open throttle as the RPMs get higher, AFR will be higher at start of pull with lower RPMs). During cruising you may see minor fluctuations averaging 14.7~14.9 cruising, and 29 is what it shows when you letoff the pedal and coasting. If you see above 12.5~12.6 or higher during a WOT pull at high rpms, immediately abort the pull. Please datalog and provide for review. Do not drive the car if you don’t have to. Always ensure your fuel tank is at least half full when doing pulls and driving spiritedly as fuel moving away from the fuel pump with higher G forces can cause momentary fuel starvation and make you go lean. When coming to a stop, the AFR may fluctuate at various AFR before settling to the mid 14s.

* IAT: Weather dependent. With good intercooler, no more than +15F (8C) over ambient when driving without A/C; +25F (13C) with A/C.  IAT will always be high and rise if you aren't moving or sitting at stop lights or in drive thru's.

* Coolant Temp: On average, anywhere from 210~223F operating temperature depending on various factors. If over 230F (110C), pull over and determine cause. These cars are very robust, but heat will kill anything given enough time.  

* Oil Temp: On average, anywhere from 215 - 230F is typical . Above 270F (132C), invest in an oil cooler you track hooning maniac! ;) In all seriousness, If you’re hitting above 270F (132C) on a road-course, do a cool-down lap and give it time to return to average operating temperatures. 

* Relative Manifold Pressure: As opposed to Boost Pressure, this monitor shows boost in the manifold, and not pre-throttle plate (in the throttle pipe). What boost you are supposed to run depends on the tune but typically stock turbos (is20 and is38) peak around 28 give or take and taper down as the RPMs rise. Vortex holds boost through the whole RPM range. If you’re struggling to maintain boost pressure, check for leaks. 

* Knock Average: Provides you with an average knock feedback from the knock sensor, located between cylinders 2 and 3. These are very sensitive sensors, so the rougher/harsher the ride and the more NVH you have, the more noise will be presented to the sensor. When driving and datalogging, any Knock Average below 3.00 is “O-K”. Some engine mounts can cause -3.75 just from releasing the brakes at a stop light. We will always strive for achieving ZERO knock, however things such as fuel quality, climate, elevation, etc. will factor in. Typically, you will discover knock feedback on shifting, and it’s usually well within acceptable limits. If you see knock feedback above 3.00 for extended periods of duration while wide open throttle, as can be seen in a data log, do not push the car hard, and you can send us the datalog to review. Normally poor fuel or improperly gapped plugs or old plugs are the culprit.

With Cobb's new CCF Rom structure, you can perform the adaptation directly from the AccessPort.

 By selecting the “Turbine Actuator Voltage” monitor in your gauges, you can monitor the voltage in order to set your wastegate voltage (~3.9-4.1VDC in most cases), and then utilize the “Wastegate Adaptation” setting in the troubleshooting section to set your adapted voltage. 

To use for setting is38 wastegate voltage, the car just needs to be in the ACC/ON position (not running). You can then manually set your voltage, and then in the troubleshooting menu, perform the wastegate adaptation. To use for setting the is20 wastegate voltage, the car needs to be cycled into the ON (not running) position. The voltage is then displayed as the base voltage, and then after the car is on for more than 10 or so seconds it reduces to a resting voltage. 

Note that you will need to repeat this action a few times until you reach the desired voltage. Then perform the wastegate adaptation as above.

The below link contains the EQT Logging list. You can use this file with your AccessPort for logging monitors that your tuner will want to see if you're sending him log files. If you are doing a log for your tuner, follow the directions from your tuner on what they want you to log. If you are just doing a normal log on your own and trying to capture something specific, take the log during the actual event you are trying to capture. Do not log for 10+ minutes and try to upload a log and say "can you check this log out". Take focused logs. 10-30 seconds capturing exactly the area in which you may have a concern about. 

EQT Mk7/7.5 Logging List

EQT Mk8 Logging List

The most recent logging list will always be at the above link. For MK8/8Y vehicles please email us and we can provide a log list. 

"Help, it gives me an error about too many monitors when I try to log!"

If you uploaded the loglist and activated it in your accessport, but the accessport warns that you have selected too many monitors to log, this is likely because you have selected additional monitors in your gauges view, that are not present in the logging list. If this is the case, the easiest solution is to reduce the number of viewed gauges to 1 or 2, and then you should be able to log as normal. For example, if the maximum amount of simultaneous monitors that can log is 48, and there are 48 monitors in the loglist that we use, then if ANY of the gauges you display on the main gauges screen is a monitor that isn't one that is on the loglist, it will take it beyond 48. If your gauges on the gauges screen are things we already include in our loglist, such as relative manifold pressure, rail pressure actual, or AFR etc... then it will not add to the 48. 

Video Instructions provided courtesy of EverythingCPO: EverythingCPO uses EQT Loglist

When is a DSG relearn needed?

When flashing a TCM tune, especially if you are switching from a competitors software to another, or switching from software meant for 1 turbo to a new bigger turbo, you may possibly encounter some unintended shift behavior. *If*  you experience shift oddities(Do not necessarily need to run it if you are not experiencing issues), it's recommended you perform a reset of the DSG  transmission, as the TCM does not reset learned behaviors (unlike the ECM when flashing a new map). In order to do this, you'll want to navigate to the troubleshooting menu in your Cobb AccessPort. Once there, select TCM service.

From the TCM service menu, perform each item straight down the list, one by one. Skip touchpoint calibration, and Default Setting of DSG and Fast relearn, continue on with the last few, then go back and do "Default setting of DSG", then after that do "Touchpoint Calibration", then finally the fast learn. Attempting to do the Touchpoint before doing the others will typically give an error. 

NOTE: In order to properly perform default settings, the vehicle must be running, in park with the parking brake engaged, and transmission fully up to temperature. You will need to also place your foot firmly on the brake in order to complete the procedure.  Failure to follow these instructions could result in unwanted results. 

Short answer, no. None of the torque related monitors in the accessport have any accurate values that tell you what your wheel torque or even engine torque are. For instance, the driver requested torque monitor is actually an output from the maximum torque tables, and is used as the X axis for mass air setpoint tables. The output is based on AIT, coolant temps, dsg torque, etc. None of the torque related monitors are for end-user display; they are used for dialing in the tuning of the vehicle. 

None of the performance monitors are 100% accurate either. They give you a rough idea on how fast your car is but you are better off using a dragy for accurate monitoring of your performance.

Quick Pros/Cons

Pro: Yes it is possible to use an ECU tune someone else may have had depending on the Application with a discounted used unit.

Cons: Tune might not work or be for a different model year car, seller might have uninstalled improperly and leaving you with an AP that cannot be installed on your car, no Cobb warranty if the AP ends up having an issue and going out, DSG tunes are very highly unlikely to transfer so you will need to factor in the cost of 1 or both tunes to the used price. Must purchase your own tunes for the discounted options changes or updates (if/when updates are released)

Q&A

Question: I am thinking about buying a used Accessport that has EQT tunes on them, will they work for my car?

Answer: "it depends". Depending on the version tune, the tune that someone else has on their Accessport may or may not work on your vehicle. For 2015-2018 vehicles, All modern tunes starting with v2.0 are built upon the Cobb Consolidated ROM file structure (Vehicle ID will show as COBB01, 02, 04 etc) and they are interchangeable between any 2015-2018 of that particular model vehicle. So for example a tune for a GTI or A3 for a 2015 can work on another 2015-2018 GTI or A3. And the same for the Golf R and S3. 

2019+ is a whole different ECU and cannot interchange with the older ones. So no a 2019 tune will not be compatible with a 2015-2018. 2019/2020 Golf R and S3 use one tune. 2019-2021 GTI/GLI/A3 use another. And not every file for 2019+ will work universally from 2019-2021, depending on the exact file, it may only work on 2021 only, or only work on 2019 and 2020 but not 2021. Or it may work on all 3 years 19-21. Rolling the dice. 

Question: Can I use an acccessport that was on a GTI or A3 on my Golf R or S3?

Answer: No. Different Accessport model number.

Question: Can I use an accessport that was used on a manual transmission car on my DSG car?

Answer: Yes, you would simply need to purchase the DSG communication unlock upgrade for it if you wish to tune the DSG. There isn't a DSG accessport and manual accessport. There is only 1 single Accessport for the GTI/A3 and 2019+ GLI, and 1 single Accessport for Golf R and S3. The only thing that makes them different (ECU and DSG wise) is if someone paid for the $400 DSG upgrade to unlock the ability for that accessport to talk to DSG's in addition to the ECU. There are no differences ECU tune wise for manual cars and DSG cars. 

Question: Can someone's DSG tune they have on their Accessport work on my car?

Answer: It is possible, but highly unlikely. DSG tunes are made to work on specific DSG Box codes, and there are many many of them. The odds the seller and buyer will have the same one is very small, but exists. If you buy a used accessport that was previously tuned for the DSG, please physically marry the accessport to your DSG with a cobb DSG tune first before ordering your own and do not give us the previous owners DSG ID by accident. Marry it to your car and you will then see YOUR dsg ID. 

Question: Can I get the latest updates or changes to options on my used file?

Answer: No. The discounted ECU staged tune options change and updates (when updates are ever released) are reserved for original owners of the tune who paid for their file to support our work. If you love our work and want too contribute to continued development and support, please consider supporting us and becoming an original owner of your own tune. :)

I see on the page where I order my tune it is asking what my Accessport serial number is. How can I find it?

You can find your accessport serial number in various ways, including physically written on a sticker behind the accessport's face plate. But that is not the method I would recommend, especially if you bought a used accessport or ever had Cobb relicense your accessport for whatever reason (converted your AP to a new vehicle or repgrammed after a faulty accessport was fixed, etc). Also the sticker can become faded or some numbers hard to read. 

The best way to ensure your accessport serial number is correct is to plug it into your computer and open Accessport Manager, which you download from Cobb's website as the packaging instructs you to when you receive an Accessport. Link to AP Manager download ---> Here

Once inside Accessport manager, you can update the firmware of your AP, and copy tunes to and from the PC and AP, datalogs, etc etc. To find your AP Serial,  click AP Info as show below and you will now see two places with your 100% correct serial number.

We normally provide our customers with specific instructions via email when we send their tune, however sometimes this note can be omitted by mistake during the fulfillment process. 

The email reads as follows: "Here's your tune. First make sure your AccessPort firmware is up to date.Then load the file onto your AccessPort and flash it to the ECU/TCU. New Cobb Consolidated ROM's may cause a warning message when loading to the AccessPort. Please ignore and proceed with flash. 

Enjoy and let me know if you have any questions.  If you ordered an E30 tune, please pay careful attention to the map notes. 

Finally, please join our Facebook Group which contains a great FAQ and a lot of useful information. It is a great place to ask questions and stay in touch with us and other EQT customers at Equilibrium Tuning MQB/VAG Group "

Yes. 

Both VLK002 (GTI/A3/GLI) and VLK003 (Golf R/S3) AccessPorts are capable of being upgraded from ECU Only to ECU/TCU units.

To upgrade your AccessPort to be able to flash your TCU/DSG visit the product page linked below.

CLICK HERE

Make sure to take advantage of our EQT Bundle Pricing during checkout to receive $75 off your EQT TCU Tune.




DSG Unlock Installation Procedure:

Please use the following instructions to complete your upgrade:

• 1. Download the upgrade.key attachment into a folder of your choice.
• 2. Connect your Accessport to your computer.
• 3a. Update to the latest version of Accessport Manager (APM).
• 3b. Update to the latest firmware for your Accessport.
• 4. From within APM, go to the Options menu, and click the "Advanced" button.
• 5. From within APM, click the "Change Accessport License" button.
• 6. Browse to the folder where you saved your upgrade.key, select it, and click OK.
• 7. The process is complete when you see and confirm the success message.  Your Accessport will now reboot and the feature will be active.

So you are wondering how to go about the initial marrying/install of an accessport to your vehicle? Here is the definitive checklist you need for the process to be as smooth as possible as taking shortcuts or having the process interrupted can result in a bricked ECU that Cobb will need to help you recover.

1. Ensure the car has a good battery tender/charger on the battery. 10amp or greater is recommended. Having a running car hooked up with jumper cables also works if you are desperate and in a pinch. The initial process of getting the Accessport married to the car takes around 20 minutes and if your battery weakens or dies in mid flash it can brick the ECU requiring a recovery in which Cobb will need to help you with.
2. If at all possible, be in a STOCK state. While the AP can overwrite certain tunes, there is no guarantee that yours will be perfect. Sometimes people buy cars used and they have tunes already on them and they have no idea which. If this is the case then fine, go ahead and perform the process as it cannot be helped. But if it is at all possible, try to be stock to avoid potential issues.  
3. Turn off bluetooth inside the car's radio itself. Merely turning off the screen will not accomplish this. Turn it fully off in the settings. Bluetooth can at times cause interference in the flashing process.
4. Temporarily remove or disable any LO-JACK or remote starters or any other device that ties into the OBD system or Can-bus gateway. These can interfere with the AP keeping a stable connection to the ECU. 
5. DO NOT WALK AWAY FROM THE CAR WITH THE KEYS IN YOUR POCKET OR HANDS! This will trip the immobilizer and will brick the ECU as well.
6. Keep the hood popped open (Especially 2019+ vehicles). This should be automatic since you should be using a battery charger. When you pop your hood, your dash should show the hood in Red indicating it is open. Pay attention to this because if your hood latch sensor is faulty, it can think it is always closed even when it is open and wont turn red and then fail to flash the car!
7. Doors: Some cars like the driver door open, some are picky and only work with them closed. This is less of an issue and in the event it does cause an issue, it usually fails in a way that the ECU is not bricked, and you just restart the process.
8. ONLY MARRY AN ACCESSPORT WHILE COBB IS OPEN FOR BUSINESS! This will ensure that IF something unfortunately goes wrong, you can call them and have them help you recover the flash instead of you waiting all weekend with an unusable car. 

That is pretty much it! Enjoy!

It was recently brought to our attention by Cobb that there are some issues with supportability of World Market / Rest of World TCM ID’s or “box codes”. Some of these TCM’s in world market vehicles will have the proper base TCM ID, however their software loads are incompatible with Cobb’s released software. Cobb is aware of the issue and is working to bring support to affected world market vehicles, but we are unaware of timing for this to be resolved.

In light of this, we cannot guarantee support for world market DSG tuning at this time. If you are unsure what this means to you, please reach out to us before placing your order.

Current versions: 

V2.63 2015-2019 R/S3, 2015-2021 GTI/GLI/A3

V1.80 2022+ R/S3, 2022+ GTI

NOTE with MK8 GTI Tuning:  Currently, ROM ID 8Y0906264E_0001 is experiencing torque limiter reduction for HIGH TORQUE files. If you ordered a HT file, you will be receiving LT until this limiter is addressed. 

8/8/2024 - v1.80 (2022+ R/S3, 2022+ GTI)

• Production Release: Stage 2 91, 93, E85 LT, E85 HT files for MK8 GTI
• Revised accelerator pedal mapping for smoother, more consistent drivability
• Revised burble functionality
• Adjustments to fueling strategy to improve transitional response
• Lowered coolant temperature targets
• Revised Torque/Airflow modeling
• Adjustments to injection timing strategy
• Misc cleanup for parity

4/15/2024 - v2.63 (2015-2021 GTI/GLI/A3 and 2019+ R/S3)

• Burbles revised to resemble OEM European style, less aggressive below 4k rpm, increasing aggressiveness above 4k rpm
• Diverter Valve tuning further refined to prevent hanging open at part throttle
• Boost profile revised slightly for high elevation operation
• Default Cobb LC settings revised to make more boost on launch
• Misc cleanup

10/04/2023 - v2.63 (2015-2018 R/S3)

• Certain files experienced extended burble function up to 5~6 seconds on downshifts. This update reduces the function to 1~2 seconds as intended.

09/26/2023 - v2.62 (2015-2018 R/S3)

• Burbles revised to resemble OEM European style, less aggressive below 4k rpm, increasing aggressiveness above 4k rpm
• Diverter Valve tuning further refined to prevent hanging open at part throttle
• Boost profile revised slightly for high elevation operation
• Default Cobb LC settings revised to make more boost on launch
• Misc cleanup

09/01/2023 - v1.16 (2022+ R/S3, 2022+ GTI)

• Initial release Stage 1 calibrations

11/23/2022 - v2.54 (2019+ GTI/GLI/A3)

• Revised strategy to address some cars presenting with false SAI codes

4/21/2021 - v2.52 (All MQB Manual Transmission)

• Minor update to reduce throttle sensitivity in manual transmission cars only. Some MT customers found the throttle to be too sensitive. This revision now uses the same throttle mapping for MT as DSG cars which makes the pedal a bit more linear and less sensitive. 
• Does not affect DSG cars. 

2/21/2021 - V2.51 (All Golf R/S3)

• Revised fueling strategy to improve spool and response during aggressive driving. 
• Revised valve lift switchover points for smoother powerband at partial and full throttle. Especially noticeable on manual transmission cars. 
• Reduced coolant temperature targets. This results in cooler coolant and oil temperatures which makes for more consistent power levels and reduces knock. 
• Included fixes for issues specifically affecting the 2018 Golf R. This includes inconsistent launch control activation for DSG cars, and some shifting/drivability issues for MT cars. 
• Added upgraded HPFP variant of all maps. This is meant to work with the Autotech Upgraded High Pressure Fuel Pump internals. 

1/29/2021 - V2.51 (All GTI/A3)

• Added revised 2019 throttle mapping to pre-2019 GTI. Smoother, more predictable drivability and throttle feel. This also helps further improve the diverter valve operation. 
• Revised fueling strategy to improve spool and response during aggressive driving. 
• Revised valve lift switchover points for smoother powerband at partial and full throttle. Especially noticeable on manual transmission cars. 
• Reduced coolant temperature targets. This results in cooler coolant and oil temperatures which makes for more consistent power levels and reduces knock. 
• Added upgraded HPFP variant of all maps. This is meant to work with the Autotech Upgraded High Pressure Fuel Pump internals. 

4/25/2020 - v2.0 : Major update to all ECU Staged Tunes.  

• Added support for Jetta GLI
• Added E30 Staged Tunes for Stage 1/2 Golf R
• Resolved factory inherent diverter valve control issue on all GTI tunes
• Refined boost control, ignition timing, fueling targets, cam timing, torque and throttle tables for all models to improve drivability, power, and consistency.
• Revised low end boost curves to minimize compressor surge/flutter.
• Some slight flutter can still occur on certain setups and conditions, but it is minimal and not a cause for concern in terms of performance and reliability.
• Peak boost targets set to 27psi at sea level with a healthy taper at the top end to keep the turbo healthy and efficient; boost targets and taper will vary based on elevation.
• Revised burbles options for more consistent activation.
• Resolved issue that prevented some 2019 vehicles from activating burbles.

9/20/2019 - v1.10 (2015-2018 R, 2019 GTI); v1.25 (2015-2018 GTI): 

• Drivability and performance revisions
• Revised boost targets, ignition timing, and fuel timing for improved performance and drivability
• Significant power bump for 2015-2019 GTI
• Refinements in Cobb custom feature settings
• Refinements for burble options

V1.09:  Initial non-beta Staged Tune release.   

Knock can be caused by a few different things, or a combination thereof. There’s just as much art as there is science to reducing overall knock feedback. When you determine you’re seeing actual knock that is harmful to the motor, you need to get to the source and eliminate it as soon as possible, to prevent irreversible damage. When we say actual knock, we typically refer to knock feedback NOT during shifting schedules, or noise from suspension/body/modifications to the car. If you see sustained knock on multiple cylinders in lets say a 4000-4500rpm range above 3.00, this is problematic and needs to be addressed.

Typically, faulty/incorrectly gapped plugs, or bad gas cause these kinds of issues. We have posted a link below to a thread in this group which speaks to fuel quality and knock feedback; Fuel Quality vs. Knock Resistance – Fuel quality can vary, but Chevron should be avoided. It’s a bit redundant, but needs to be said: Avoid cheap gas, like CHEVRON! Remember, “Top Tier” doesn’t mean it’s good gas. It just means they’re using industry recognized detergents and additives. The phrase “Lipstick on a pig” is very meaningful here.

Simple things to check are coil packs (grounds and coil harness connections), spark plugs and their electrode gap, and possibly even bad fuel. These vehicles when tuned are VERY sensitive to fuel quality, due to Direct Fuel Injection. We highly recommend you address the common issue of carbon buildup on the intake valves at recommended schedules, and also run a can of seafoam through the gas system every 30~40k miles.

Seafoam works great in helping to diagnose lesser known issues such as partially clogged injectors and other fuel system components. Follow recommended instructions for application of Seafoam to the fuel system. Less popular however still helpful instructions for Seafoam through the intake tract can also be utilized. Lastly, log and provide us with what you’ve acquired; there may be another underlying condition that warrants a second opinion.

Below is an example of sustained knock events on a cylinder. The picture may be difficult to see, but the only monitors in view are knock retard cylinder 4, engine speed, and throttle position. Here you can see knock retard as much as -5.25 degrees, and several instances of -3.5 to -4.25 degrees of timing for knock.

What are burbles?

Burbles is our version of "pops and bangs", a seemingly popular modification in which fuel is injected after the combustion process so that unburnt fuel is ignited during deceleration by the exhaust stream, causing lots of little explosions in the exhaust after the turbo. The sound mimics that of an anti-lag system that keeps the turbo spooled to prevent turbo lag. Here's a video of one of our customers with our turbo system and showing off the sound of his custom catback exhaust and the burbles in sport are able to be heard as well.  ---> Golf R burbles in sport

How is it activated?

In order for this to work, a few things need to be lined up. 

•  • You need to have a warmed-up vehicle with all oils and coolants at operating temps. (FYI, if the ECU thinks the exhaust gas temps are too high it will not allow it as a safety feature)
  
  
• • You need to have the vehicle in the mode in which you chose burbles to be in (sport, normal, or if both it doesn't matter)
  
  
• • Any time you turn off the car and restart it, the car is in normal mode by default even if it says Sport or Race in the drive mode on the screen. If you have burbles in sport mode only, you'll need to cycle out of sport/race mode and then back into sport/race again. 
  
  
• • Finally, you need to have enough load on the vehicle in order to introduce some unburned fuel into the exhaust stream during deceleration (take your foot off the accelerator while in boost, for instance). With these variables above, you should hear plenty of burbles/bangs/pops/etc. Try ensuring your foot is heavy on the throttle and past 3500rpms and then release the throttle.

Do the burbles pop while in Park/Neutral?

In order for the car to have burbles in park/neutral while free revving it, is to have it in both normal and sport mode where it is on all the time.

Are there any negatives to having burbles/pops?

Other than disturbing the public :P, depending on how sensitive someone is, in certain situations you may feel or notice RPM behavior ever so briefly fluctuate while in the mode you have burbles active in the tune during gear changes. The drivability quirk is just a byproduct of the extra injection of the fuel in the cylinder after combustion. Also fuel mileage is decreased of course with wasting extra bits of fuel after the combustion process. 

What if I have a stage 1 stock downpipe/cat? Are burbles safe?

Our burbles are not super aggressive and some cars even have them active from the factory. That being said, the risks are still there to clog your OEM cat and cause damage. Also, stock downpipes muffle a lot of sound so while you can still hear them the effect isn't as good as having an aftermarket downpipe. Keep this in mind. :)

In a nutshell, the factory turbocharger (is20 or is38) is very small, and designed for efficiency. The way the boost is controlled is very advanced, with both the waste gate and diverter valve working in unison for optimum performance. 

Our tunes take advantage of the way the ECM controls these functions, and really breathe life into the car. With our methods of control, you may encounter some "flutter" or "compressor surge" at high-load, low RPM conditions. This varies depending on the individual car or mods such as intakes or inlets etc, but in some cases is completely unavoidable. We have done our best to minimize this condition with smoothing out the boost curves at high-load and low-rpm areas of the map, however some users may still encounter it. 

The easiest solution for this "problem" is to not lug the car around in too high of a gear at more than 50% throttle input. Downshift to a lower gear, then give it the beans to your heart's content.

Note that the flutter is not detrimental to turbo operation. 

Rev hang is both in the ECU Tuning as well as the mechanical parts on the car. The dual mass flywheel has substantial mass which will promote some rev hang and can only be reduced on a manual transmission car by means of lightening the flywheel.

However lightening the flywheel does come with its draw backs if lightened too much. Too light of a flywheel will induce gear rattle / noise from the transmission and can also hurt torque a little bit at the expense of higher end power and the ability to free rev faster.

So while our ECU Tune will help reduce the rev hang through electronic tuning, it can not be 100% eliminated.

For MK8

We have low torque files available depending on the application since many vehicles with DSG do not have the ability to have a DSG tune so to keep the DSG happy we have these available. Manual cars, run the same risk as MK7 (see below) regardless if its low torque or not.  

For MK7 

We do not offer a low torque variant as regardless of the tune you're on, direct driver input is going to play the greatest factor in how long the clutch lasts or not. By not providing a low torque file we try to not enable or encourage drivers to abuse the stock clutch thinking that " it's on a low torque tune, it's safe, it'll be fine"

The facts are, the clutch will last as long as YOU let it, within reason that is.

Things to avoid:
- Launching the car / aggressive starts

- Lugging the car
- Heavy Throttle usage in High Gear.
(example: passing a vehicle on the highway in 5th or 6th gear at fairly low engine speed such as sub 3000rpm)

We offer several clutch upgrade options for all sorts of budgets and hopefully one of them will meet your needs.

Shop for EQT Drivetrain / Clutch upgrades Here

 If you need any help or have any questions about them please contact our sales team. sales@eqtuning.com

Vaarticus / EverythingCPO put together an awesome video explaining how to switch fuels safely!

Go check out this video

Another great one to watch is How to properly drain your fuel to make a switch

This is the most important question for new ones. "I am new to tuning, where do I start?" First place to start is by familiarizing yourself with the FAQ page as you are doing now. There are lots of really good topics within here that you should be looking at in the various subcategories, especially the Accessport specific category. Once you are ready to purchase, you can order. 

If you do not have an accessport at all, car has never been tuned, have very minimal mods, stock downpipe, and you want to just jump in, then you will need an Accessport with a stage 1 tune! If you have already started modding your car including a downpipe, you will need stage 2 for proper boost control (we do not alter any emissions related components so your hardware choice will determine if you have a check engine light or not). Most vehicles only need our staged tunes. If you have a bigger turbo, extensive mod lists, fueling mods, and so on, these are the setups where custom tuning comes in. If you have standard modifications and still want a custom tune to dial it in a bit further than our normal tunes we can do that too if you wish. 

Everything you need is on one page, the Accessport page. Fill out your car information accurately, and your tune details that you wish to have. If your car has a DSG transmission and you want compatibility to tune it, be sure to bundle as needed those things. If you have a car that has a manual or non DSG automatic, be sure to NOT select DSG unlocking or tunes. Grand total is calculated at checkout. 

If you have a:

GTI / Alltrack / Sportwagen / Golf (Mk7) / A3 Quattro 2.0T / A3 FWD 1.8T (8V)

Click here -> Accessport - 1.8T/2.0T (GTI/GLI/A3 et. al)

Golf R (Mk7) / S3 (8V)

Click here -> Accessport - 2.0T (Golf R / S3)

If you have a: 

GTI (Mk8)

Click here -> VW/Audi Cobb AP - GTI (Mk8)

Golf R (Mk8) / S3 (8Y)

Click here -> VW/Audi Cobb AP (Mk8/8Y)

If you already have an Accessport but just need an ECU tune

Click here ---> ECU Staged Tune

Click here if you are stock turbo GTI/A3/GLI and need a tune for is38 ---> IS38 Upgrade Staged Tune

Custom Tune (For highly modded setups or just peace of mind) ---> Custom ECU Tune

DSG Tune ---> DSG Tune

Native IS20 Vehicles (Golf GTI, Jetta GLI, Audi A3)

• Stage 1 & 2 
• - All stock fueling equipment for 91, 93, E30- HPFP Required for E85
• Stage 2 IS38 
• - All Stock Fueling Equipment for Pump Gasoline (91/93)
• - HPFP Required for E30
• - HPFP Required for E85
• - LPFP Highly Suggested for E85
• Vortex Std / XL 
• - HPFP Required for Pump Gas
• - HPFP + LPFP Required for Ethanol Content UP TO E40 (tuner may advise higher or lower during your tuning session)
• - MPI + LPFP Required for Ethanol Content GREATER than E40 (E60, E70, E85, etc)
• - If you previously had an HPFP installed, you do NOT need to remove it if you go to  MPI/LPFP. But it is not required and you may be able to recover some costs by selling it and reverting to a stock HPFP.
• EQT Typhoon
• - MPI + LPFP Required. (Pump gas or Ethanol)
• - If you previously had an HPFP installed, you do NOT need to remove it if you go to  MPI/LPFP. But it is not required and you may be able to recover some costs by selling it and reverting to a stock HPFP.
• - EQT LPFP Pro Brushless Pump Required. 

Native IS38 Vehicles (Golf R &  Audi S3)

• Stage 1 & 2 
• - All stock fueling equipment for 91, 93, E30
• - HPFP Required for E85
• Vortex Std / XL 
• - HPFP Required for Pump Gas
• - HPFP + LPFP Required for Ethanol Content UP TO E40 (tuner may advise higher or lower during your tuning session)
• - MPI + LPFP Required for Ethanol Content GREATER than E40 (E60, E70, E85, etc)
• - If you previously had an HPFP installed, you do NOT need to remove it if you go to  MPI/LPFP. But it is not required and you may be able to recover some costs by selling it and reverting to a stock HPFP.
• EQT Typhoon
• - MPI + LPFP Required. (Pump gas or Ethanol)
• - If you previously had an HPFP installed, you do NOT need to remove it if you go to  MPI/LPFP. But it is not required and you may be able to recover some costs by selling it and reverting to a stock HPFP.
• - EQT LPFP Pro Brushless Pump Required. 

Native IS12 Vehicles (1.8T MQB / AllTrack / SportWagen)

• Stage 1 & 2
• All stock fueling equipment for all octanes (91, 93, E30)
• Stage 2 IS38 
• 91/93 May Max out the stock fueling system depending on age & condition of the vehicle
• MPI Supported on select Vehicles (Contact sales with your Ecu ID / Box code to confirm)
• Vacuum pump and HPFP upgrade are still in testing - No ETA on release
• Vortex Std / XL
• HPFP + LPFP Required Pump Gas
• MPI + LPFP Required for Ethanol (Any Content)
• If you previously had an HPFP installed, you do NOT need to remove it if you go to  MPI/LPFP. But it is not required and you may be able to recover some costs by selling it and reverting to a stock HPFP.

Gasoline:

To make it simple, you can always run a HIGHER Octane Fuel, on a LOWER Octane Tune, But not the opposite.

Example: 

If you're tuned for 91 Octane fuel, you may use 93 Octane fuel. 

If you're tuned for 93 Octane fuel, you may NOT use 91 Octane fuel

Ethanol Fuels

The above does NOT apply to Ethanol or Ethanol Blends.

You can NOT run E30 in an E85 tune, or E85 in an E30 tune.

Ethanol Tune Safe Working Ranges:

E85 Tunes may use Ethanol Content varying from E60 to E85

E30 Tuned should stay as close to E30 as possible +/- 3% (E27-E33)

If you are tuned for E30 - You can NOT run 91 or 93 octane on its own. Please follow the content guide above.

The Ideal setup for a Stage 1 setup concludes of following upgrades

Stage 1 (Stock Turbo - Stock Downpipe - Any Fuel)

• Intake
• Turbo Inlet
• Intercooler
• 1 Step Colder Spark Plugs (see our recommendations in the General section of the FAQ)
• DSG Tune (*Suggested for ideal driver experience)

Minimum for Stage 1 is;

• No Hardware Required - Stock Hardware is compatible.

The Ideal setup for a Stage 2 setup concludes of the following upgrades

Stage 2 (Stock Turbo - High Flow Exhaust Equipment*)

• Intake
• Turbo Inlet
• Intercooler
• High Flow Exhaust Equipment* (Not Sold by EQT)
• 1 Step Colder Spark plugs (See our recommendations in the General Section of the FAQ)
• DSG Tune

Minimum Upgrades for Stage 2

• High flow Exhaust Equipment* (Not Sold by EQT)
• Intercooler
• DSG Tune

*See Performance Disclaimer ---> Here

Oil/Coolant:

Regardless of whether the vehicle's OEM was spec'd with 5w40 or 0w20, We have traditonally recommended Motul Sport 5w40, but Motul has since replaced their Sport line with Motul 8100 Power. This is our recommendation along with OEM oil filters for those wanting to push their car hard and especially when utilizing our turbocharger system. (change every ~5k miles). What oil you decide to use is your own decision, but this is indeed our recommended oil.

As for coolant, we recommend Pentosin coolant (OEM). 

Coil Packs:

Stock, absolutely ZERO need to change them unless they are broken. No performance benefits by changing them. If they are bad, put new OEM ones. If you need new ones, we have a great price for them. 

Here ---> Coilpacks

Spark Plugs:

The plugs we recommend are below and have slant style grounds (don't need to gap but you can gap down to 0.024" if you have the proper tool)

For is20/is38 at any stage of tune = 1 step colder spark plugs are recommended, stage 1 can use stock plugs if you absolutely need to simply run, but if you are getting lots of knock, misfires or EPC, ensure the gap is proper or just change them. 

• NGK R7438-8 (NGK part number 4905)
• Denso IKH01-24 (Denso part number 5749)

For Big turbo (EQT Vortex or larger) = 2 step colder spark plugs. 

• NGK Racing R7438-9 (NGK part number 4656) 
• Denso IKH01-27 (Denso part number 5750)

There are many plugs out there, If you choose to use other types of plugs, that is up to you. If you use plugs with traditional style grounds, please gap to 0.024". Inspection of spark plugs every 5k to ensure gap is still good. And replacement at your discretion at an absolute maximum of 15K miles but closer to 10k is better (except brisk, if you use brisk such as er12s or er10s, you need to inspect or even replace every 3k-5k). Your mileage may of course vary with driving habits.

Click on the part to be taken to our store

Green = Required. Grey = Suggested. 

    
*Ethanol Content Analyzers are HIGHLY Recommended when using E30

*Ethanol Content Analyzers are HIGHLY Recommended when using E30
Green = Required. Grey = Suggested. 

Additional Requirements for E85 Staged Tunes

  
*GTI/GLI/A3 have smaller Direct Injectors and may benefit from an LPFP as well.

*Golf R / S3

Green = Required. Grey = Suggested. 

Green = Required. Grey = Suggested. 

**Torqbyte PM4 Fuel Pump Controller highly recommended
Green = Required. Grey = Suggested. 

**Torqbyte PM4 Fuel Pump Controller required

Thanks!

- Dave @ Equilibrium Tuning

EQT Log List Definition

Difference between Golf R and GTi (EA888.3) explained

How to load a datalog preset (loglist.cfg)

Ross-Tech Diagnostic Fault Code listing

Fuel Quality vs. Knock Resistance – Fuel quality can vary, but Chevron should be avoided.

IS20 and IS38 turbo “flutter” on base and pro tunes

Oil Temperatures on EQT Vortex powered MQB vehicles?

Cobb’s CCF (Consolidated MQB Rom Architecture) and what it means for VCDS/OBD11

Factory PCV system, and why it’s a good idea to replace it

Tips and Tricks to Ethanol Blending

Introduction

As you may know, EQT offers a wide variety of ethanol blended tunes ranging from E30 to E85.

Stage 1 and 2 are offered in an E30 variant allowing power and torque gains beyond that of conventional pump gas (91 and 93 Octane)

Included below are in house dyno graphs showing the gains across the various different stages as well as the clear advantage E30 can provide
VW Golf R & Audi S3

VW GTI/GLI & Audi A3

Custom tunes are available above E30 to provide greater gains when used in conjunction with larger than stock turbo's.

We're often asked for advice on how to blend fuel to achieve E30, E40 and sometimes even E85. To safely achieve these blends accurately you're going to need some equipment which will be outlined below. Safety Notice: Wear the appropriate PPE when handling fuel, always store in a safe environment away from heat and other potential sources of combustion. EQT is in no way liable for any damages that may occur. 

Equipment

In order to create ethanol blended fuel, and do so safely, you're going to need to purchase some equipment

• - Ethanol Content Tester (Required)
• - Safe Fuel Storage Container (Required)
• - Ethanol Content Calculator (Required)
• - Ethanol Content Analyzer (High suggested)

Ethanol Content Tester

Ethanol Content Testers come in a variety of shapes and sizes and are sold at different price points. In this example I'm going to talk about a kit that I have experience with, note that there are many options out there and it's up to you to purchase whichever works best for you.

Fuel-It offers an inexpensive, accurate test tube style kit at a low price which is an integral tool in blending fuel accurately as Ethanol quality varies based on pump to pump, day to day, etc.

Many ethanol pumps have a warning label that advises the customer of the content range at that pump, I have seen "53% - 64%" warning labels on ethanol pumps which is a main reason why ethanol content testers are required. You can't accurate calculate your mixture without knowing the content of the fuel you're using. While a lot of "pump" ethanol often reads at E70, you can't count on that to be true every time.

Safe Fuel Storage Containers

While transporting and mixing your fuel you're going to want an approved and safe fuel storage container to prevent spills and leaks. While you may be able to use the generic "red" fuel can, it's not suggested for motorsport use and there are much better options on the market.

Enter the VP Racing Fuel Can, these fuel cans are rated for alcohol fuels as well as race gas and come in a variety of colors to help you easily identify the fuel inside. Yellow for Ethanol, White for Gasoline, Green for Diesel, etc. Often you can find these fuel containers on Amazon in a 4 pack for a good price. If your fuel cans are all the same color, worry not. A simple piece of tape with a written label can save you the cost of buying multiple color fuel cans. The filler neck, venting system and large bore mouth make these ideal for motorsports use and for testing / blending your fuel to the desired content

Ethanol Content Calculator

Now that you have a known content of your Ethanol, and your gasoline (often E10) from your Content Tester, and you have it stored safely in an approved safe container. It's time to start doing a little math.

Fortunately, this is absolutely free and there are plenty of calculators on the web. For the sake of this example we're going to be using the Wallace Racing Calculator. 

Depending on the desired mixture you're looking to achieve, E30, E40, etc., and the amount of fuel you're looking to make your values will differ. But worry not, an example will be provided below.

We'll return to this example later to explain further.

Ethanol Content Analyzers

While the previous item's we needed were fairly inexpensive, content analyzers are quite a bit more expensive, typically in the $200 and up range depending on how extreme you want to go with your set up. However they are often required to verify 100% that the fuel being delivered to your HPFP or MPI System is actually what it needs to be. This system acts as a double check incase at any point your calculations or mix were off.

An Ethanol Content Analyzer is REQUIRED for EQT Custom E85 Tunes and is Highly recommended for any Ethanol blend tune. To learn more about what EQT Tunes require, or suggest Content Analyzers visit our other FAQ Document "Recommended / Require Modification List"

*An analyzer also allows you to future proof your vehicle for when Flex Fuel Tuning is available. 

Fuel-It Bluetooth Flex-Fuel Analyzer

Fuel-It Offers a Bluetooth Ethanol Content Analyzer with a variety of options to chose from. This kit is ideal for those who don't want to add a gauge to the already cramped VW / Audi dash boards and just want to check the content on their cell phone. 

The Fuel-It App is compatible with both Android OS and Apple iOS so whichever device you have, you're covered.

This kit allows you to select which Sensor you use, and depending on how you plan your installation different sensors have their own set of pro's and con's.

Note, to aid in future proofing, under "Choose Analyzer Type" you're going to want to select "Bluetooth and 0.5 volt analog signal for JB4 or analog gauge" as this 0-5V data is going to be required for future Flex Fuel Tunes.

However for the sake of this example we're going to focus on the 13577429 Sensor.

This particular 13577429 sensor doesn't require any mounting holes or brackets to be used like the Continental Uni, and is the easiest to install in a VW / Audi application.
Depending on how intricate your fuel system is you may opt for a -6AN 3/8" EFI Adapter as seen here or if you have a more simplistic system an EFI Barb Adapter may be the better choice. 

Innovate Motorsports MTX-D: Ethanol Content % and Fuel Temperature

Available at EQTuning.com 

For those looking for an all in one gauge that can be tucked away in a glove box, cubby or mounted securely in a gauge pod, the Innovate MTX-D is a great option. The Innovate unit uses the same 13577429 sensor many others use, however its simply been private labeled for Innovate as indicated by the logo on the sensor

The Innovate Kit also has an Analog Output wire which carries a 0-5V signal for use with Flex Fuel Capable ECU's / Tuning Platforms.

Best Practices - Tips and Tricks

Now that we have all the equipment needed to accurately blend our fuel, as well as verify it once it's blended. Lets go into some best practices for blending your fuel.

VW / Audi Fuel gauges are notoriously inaccurate, making it difficult to determine how much fuel you need to mix / make.
Common MQB Fuel Capacities Noted Below:

2015 - 2020 GTI / A3 Fuel Capacity: 13.2 US Gallons
2015 - 2020 Golf R / S3 Fuel Capacity: 14.5(AWD) US Gallons
*FWD A3's will have a 13.2 Gallon Fuel Capacity, consult your owners manual.

The best way to go about mixing fuel is to run your vehicle as low as you feel safe, note that it's not uncommon to have 2-2.5 gallons left in the tank when the fuel light comes on. 

I like to use nice round numbers when blending fuel, typically 10 gallons. I will run the vehicle until the fuel light first comes on, and then proceed to fuel 10 gallons.

Here we revisit our Wallace Racing Calculator

Luckily, certain fuel blends are very easy to achieve with minimal math. A great example of this is E40.

Usually Pump Ethanol hovers around 70% Ethanol, and Pump gas is 10% Ethanol (US ONLY). It just so works out that a 50/50 mixture of these two yields E40 as demonstrated on the Wallace Calculator below. Note that the octane numbers aren't relevant just the percentage

To make E30, you'll want to reference the math above as seen in the "Ethanol Content Calculator" Section.

For those who tuned for E85, you may find that Pump Ethanol quality is insufficient and you may need to purchase sealed containers of high quality ethanol from VP Racing Fuels, Ignite Racing Fuel, or other such fuel providers. You may also want to consult your Tuner / Calibrator as often times E70 is sufficient to achieve desired results safely.

Hopefully now that you've read through this guide you have a better understanding of how to mix your fuel, what tools and equipment you'll need to do so, and some tips and tricks to do it safely.

As always, if you have any questions feel free to email us or reach out on Social Media by clicking the links in the footer of the page

Thanks!
- Dave @ Equilibrium Tuning

We're often asked about the Burbles / Crackle options available for our tunes, which option they should select, and if there are any drawbacks or if any damage can occur.

EQT Burble Options
Burble Mode selection is dependent on the Transmission Shift Mode for DSG Vehicles, and Drive Mode for Manuals

By Default the transmission is in Normal / Drive mode. Regardless of if you shut the vehicle off in Dynamic mode or not, while it may read "Dynamic" on your instrument cluster, this is what we refer to as "Fake Dynamic." To truly set your vehicle into Dynamic cycle your drive select options all the way back to Dynamic.

Burbles in Normal Mode
- The transmission is in Drive (D)

Burbles in Sport Mode
- The transmission is in Sport (S)

Effects on your Vehicle / Potential Damage
I'm going to break this down into a couple sections, one is going to be volume, the other is potential damage.

Due to how this feature operates, engine braking and fuel mileage will be decreased with this option engaged.

The Tuning element
First we need to discuss what causes the "burbles" or whatever you prefer to call them.

Burbles / Crackles / Pops & Bangs, are achieved by increasing the fuel overrun delay and retarding ignition timing to move combustion events.

Burbles are an OEM Feature in Rest of World (RoW) vehicles, and EQT utilizes that factory programming to produce the desired result while keeping OE safeguards to prevent damage. 

Do you offer a more aggressive burble option?
Often customers ask for an "aggressive" burble file, while it is possible to make the effect more or less aggressive it serves no benefit and would require a custom file to do so.

What does this mean? 
Essentially the fuel injector is on a timer, from the time you let off the throttle until the injector fully shuts of. This time is so small that it is measured in milliseconds which is one thousandths of a second. 

Some people believe that the injectors turn off instantly and that is the difference, however that is simply not true. If the calibrator were to turn the injectors off instantly with a 0ms delay time, every time you let off the throttle the car would jerk or lunge leading to a very poor driving experience. 

When we calibrate a tune for Burbles we're simply lengthening the existing timer's value by a certain amount that we deem acceptable. While there are a few other changes involved to fueling, this is the primary change and often "crackle" tunes are referred to as "overrun" tunes.

Next we need to focus on the ignition timing retardation.
During throttle off conditions the vehicle will lose load and maintain RPM due to the mechanics of the engine, so we can target these areas of Low load and higher rpm to retard the ignition timing. Essentially moving the timing events to occur late which moves combustion into the exhaust manifold / downpipe.

The combination of heat, late ignition, and additional fuel is what creates the burble effect. 

Things to Consider
OEM VWAG goes to great extents to prevent the catalyst from being damaged and heat it up quickly, they accomplish this with the SAI System, Valve Overlap Tuning and other systems

The SAI System pumps fresh air into the exhaust stream during cold start when the car is in Warm-Up Fueling Enrichment. This is done to lean out the fuel mixture after the cylinder to accelerate the heating of the catalyst to increase its efficiency

Often VWAG uses the Variable Valve controls to control exhaust temperature by creating additional valve overlap to send inert/neutral gas towards the catalyst to cool it

Thanks!

- Dave @ Equilibrium Tuning

In this article we're going to compare EQT to a couple of our leading competitors, while these competitors will not be named, their pricing will be listed according to the latest available information.

For this example, we're going to be using a Mk7 GTI looking to go to Stage 2 setup including both ECU and DSG Tuning.

First, let us review our own offerings, what benefits you get by choosing EQT, as well as what exactly you get for your money. While we offer both Cobb AccessPort and EcuTek software solutions for your MQB VW / Audi, we're going to focus this overview on the Cobb AccessPort

For $675 you get a multifunction tool that is a Flash Tool, Datalogger, Gauge Viewer, Code Reader, and overall a useful tool to have. This piece of hardware is not locked to your VIN Number like some competitor’s flash tools and holds a high resale value because it's not locked to a VIN, and if you were to upgrade from your GTI to a Golf R you can keep the same AP, Cobb will need to reprogram it but it's a lot cheaper than buying a new AP! Your AP also comes with all of the Cobb OTS tunes preloaded.

You have the option to purchase your AccessPort (AP) with or without DSG Tuning allowing you to progress with your vehicle in steps, or "stages," as can be done with many of our competitors.  The DSG Unlock / Flashing upgrade is $400 and for that money, you're granted access to all of the Cobb OTS (over the shelf) DSG tunes and the benefits that come with it.

Real quick we're going to get away from the cost aspects of the Tune, and purely review some of the benefits of an EQT Staged Tune. Ed is always at the race track and daily driving these cars, we don't just buy them to do some WOT Pulls, make a couple of dyno graphs and then sell the car.

Each car is daily driven under all conditions, and any little thing that doesn't quite feel just perfect is subject to revision. Or any condition that occurs on the race track that could be a touch improved is subject to a revision. These revisions come at an extremely low price, for a huge array of upgrades and updates. ($25)

Sure, you might say, "Well why release the tune if it's not 'done'?" Well for all intents and purposes, the tune is 'Done'. It will make great power, drive well, and be reliable. However, as every car enthusiast knows, no car is ever "done."

Let’s say you install an MPI Kit on your car and that was the last part you needed to "finish it" while the kit is installed on the car.. over time you might find you want to change things, maybe upgrade a fuel line to a larger diameter, maybe spice up the bay by changing those hose clamps out for AN Fittings, polish up the fuel rail, powder coat it? Was there anything wrong with the kit when you installed it? Not at all. You just saw the opportunity for improvement and took it, or maybe you discovered a better way to utilize the kit.

Now back to the costs, when purchasing your AP, DSG unlock, and Tunes together, we have great bundle deals to save you money. If you're not able to take advantage of the bundle deals, we still offer very competitive pricing that delivers unprecedented quality.

An EQT Staged Tune regardless of Stage or Octane is $175. There is no upcharge for a Stage 1 to Stage 2 Tune, it's simply a purchase of a new tune. With that staged tune you have the option to select your stage, and your octane, as well as if your vehicle is equipped with an upgraded High-Pressure Fuel Pump (HPFP), something that our competitors don’t offer. Note that when you bundle the EQT Staged tune with your AP purchase, you save $75!

If you purchase the DSG unlock with your AP, or on its own, you're provided another bundle discount option for the EQT DSG Tune at the same discounted price, $100 vs $175.

With all this said, the advantages of the AP, the advantages of the included OTS Files, and the benefits of the revised EQT Files, where do we end up? $1275, plus whatever shipping speed you select.

I could go into custom tunes and the advantage to take your vehicle beyond the realms of the traditional "stage 2" setup, but that's not what this comparison is about.

Now let’s do a heads up comparison between two leading competitors.

With the two competitors, we're going to discuss, there are no upgrades beyond an OEM Turbocharger (IS38), No support for upgraded HPFP's, no tunes for E30 fuel, and definitely no support for MPI.

But for the sake of our comparison, none of that is really applicable but definitely worth mentioning.

Both of these competitors’ tools are locked to the Vin number, and while some have the ability to flash multiple vehicles if you had more than 1 car. The resale value is exceptionally low. Sure these flash tools are cheaper than a Cobb AP, but do they offer you the same value for your dollar? Well, that's up to you to decide. 

With these competitors, there are no revisions, no updates, you get what you get and if you don’t like it, that's too bad. In the Military, we would call this a "Fire and Forget weapon" once it's been used, it’s cooked. Not able to be used again. 

As mentioned in the summary of costs with the two competitors, there are no upgrades beyond an OEM Turbo Upgrade to an IS38, which you may only be looking for IS38 power I suppose that's fine. But I personally can't justify the cost to buy into a brand that literally caps how far I can progress with my car and if you wanted to go beyond what they offered you would have to start all over.

With EQT your options are virtually unlimited to whatever you can bolt onto the car. Want to start off by dipping your feet into the water of the aftermarket with a Stage 1 tune with all stock hardware, we have you covered. If you want to do a full-blown race car with a built engine, port fuel injection, and a monster turbocharger, we still have you covered. The Sky is the limit with EQT.

In this article we're going to discuss the advantages and disadvantages of using a Water Methanol Injection kit on your vehicle, as well as the different ways it can be used including the pro's and con's of each.

First lets talk about what Water Methanol Injection is used for and why it works, and note that this is somewhat of a loaded question with a couple answers so for the sake of being thorough we're going to address both. 


The typical scenario when using a Water Methanol Injection (WMI) Kit is for temperature control, when using WMI for the purpose of keeping Inlet Air Temperatures (IAT) down you can actually use straight water and no methanol at all if cooling is your ONLY focus.

Water absorbs almost twice as much heat as methanol in the intake and inside the combustion chamber. also water cannot ignited so there is absolutely no risk for fire. But why not just use pure water? 

Now we need to look at why we use a 50/50 solution. In the government studies for WWII piston-powered aircraft, 50/50 water-methanol was found to be the best fluid to use for auxiliary fluid injection. There is also very little benefit to using a higher ratio of methanol if cooling is what you're goal is. But more on this later.

Methanol is a very high octane alcohol based fuel that is extremely resistant to detonation, methanol also has a very low stoichiometric ratio compared to gasoline or even ethanol. Methanol also has a tendency to absorb heat, this property is know as "latent heat of vaporization" which is part of why methanol can actually freeze components. (Often seen on intake manifolds when pure methanol is used)

Next we need to talk about another reason people often use WMI Kits. 

On older VW platforms such as the Mk5 and Mk6 where fueling upgrades were not as plentiful as they are in the MQB Market, often people would use large amounts of methanol to increase their fueling capacity. 

A stock Mk6 would typically run out of fuel around the low 400hp range and there were almost no upgrades available for a reasonable cost, due to this limitation in the fuel system a lot of people would run methanol to supplement their fuel. And while this worked, and with proper tuning could yield some impressive results, it had its draw backs.

If you had a tune that wasn't properly calibrated for the methanol you would experience huge fuel trims and potential throttle intervention by the ECU as the O2 Correction rocketed off the charts with the onset of additional fuel being delivered.

Also, if you did have a proper tune for the additional WMI, you would be completely dependent on it just as a Race Gas tune is dependent on Race Gas being in the tank, WMI tunes are dependent on the tank being full and operational. This could cause a catastrophic failure if there were any delivery problems with the WMI system. 

A lot of methanol tanks on the market aren't baffled or sumped so if you were low on methanol and performing a fairly high G maneuverer you could potentially starve the system, lean out the engine and cause severe damage. Due to this often times low level lights are used as an early warning system.

• You need to make sure you have a tank large enough to maintain consistent delivery to the pump. You need to have a low level warning system and/or a failsafe that will reduce engine power or boost pressure in the event you did run out.
• And you also need to make sure that your methanol injection system is well maintained and doesn't have any leaks as methanol is highly flammable and has a low flash point of 140 degrees Fahrenheit.

• WMI has a cleaning effect that can help prevent carbon build up on Direct-Injected Engines
• WMI can help clear up any ignition retard caused by poor fuel quality
• WMI can be used as a cheap alternative to race fuel when implemented correctly.

- Dave At EQT.

Welcome back to another Water Methanol Injection article. If you find yourself here and haven't reviewed Part 1 then you'll probably want to give that a read before proceeding.

To read Part 1 Click Here

Summarized, part 1 outlines the two major uses for Water Methanol Injection (WMI). One main use is for temperature control, the other is for additional octane and supplemental fueling.

In this article, we're going to discuss the major components of a WMI Setup.

Water Methanol Injection Kits comprise of 5 major components;

• - Fluid Pump
• - Fluid reservoir
• - Injection Controller
• - Nozzles / Jets
• - Fluid

The majority of the fluid pumps on the market are produced by Aquatec and are often built to different standards depending on what the manufacturer requires.

The pumps contain EDPM seals which allow them to be chemically compatible with 100% Methanol, however, it is not advised due to the low flash point of Methanol, as well as the minimal benefits and increased costs. A 50/50 mixture has been proven to offer the best knock suppression and cooling. (discussed in part 1)

Due to the fact that many WMI systems utilize the same pump, mounting solutions are plentiful and fairly universal.

Most of the pumps on the market have a 300psi maximum output, however many of them are turned down via an adjustment screw located on the pump to the manufacturer’s specifications.

Most fluid tanks are made of a corrosion resistant polymer and are injection molded to the desired shape by the manufacturer. Tanks come in all sorts of shapes and sizes to fit different applications. AEM V3 kits are now coming with a slightly larger tank to help extend the fill intervals, while Snow Performance kits often come with a 3-quart tank with an option 2.5 gallon upgrade.

The 2.5 gallon tank from Snow is probably the largest tank you want to stuff into a streetcar, but there are also other options available from Aquamist, Devils Own, and US Plastics

Some users prefer the stealthy approach of reusing their existing washer fluid tank with a bulkhead fitting, while most choose to use the provided tank from their kit or an upgraded tank. While there is nothing wrong with using the OE washer tank you have to be aware that the OE washer pump may not be designed to take the higher content of methanol. While washer fluid can be used in place of a 50/50 mixture, we'll discuss that further on in this article.

If you're going to be mounting the tank in the trunk you're absolutely going to want a solenoid and/or a check valve to prevent gravity siphoning into your injection site. 

The wiring of the solenoid should always be as the manufacturer specifies. But usually, the pump power wire and the solenoid should be tied together so the solenoid only opens when the pump is triggered.

Check valves are also often used to help aid to prevent siphoning of fluid, these check valves often have a cracking pressure of around 30psi which even the weakest pump should be able to overcome.

When you're mounting your tank, you'll want to do a bit of planning as to where your pump is going to be located as your pump is only gravity fed so your tank will need to be higher than the pump to allow proper feeding. 

You can also buy some really slick tanks that have built-in pump mounts such as the Universal Fitment 3 Gallon Trunk Mount Tank from ProMeth

Injection Controllers is where everything gets really interesting as there are so many ways you can control WMI. Generally speaking, there are two types of controllers; 

Static Controllers, and Progressive Controllers. 

Static controllers are like a light switch, it's on or off. And Progressive controllers are more like a dimmer switch on a timer. You can start dark and work your way brighter based upon what you want or preset parameters. In our case, the main parameter would be boost pressure.

Most kits on the market come with some type of controller, and depending on the "Stage" of the kit it will vary. Some of them are extraordinarily simple and operate on a Hobbs style switch (a pressure/boost activate relay) that triggers the pump, and others are highly programmable and extremely complex such as the Aquamist HFS-4 or even the Snow Performance VC-50. 

How you decide to control your WMI is entirely up to you and a lot of the prebuilt kits offer great options which are ideal for beginners. But for the more advanced users, the Aquamist HFS-4 and TorqByte CM5-LT are on the top of the totem pole for absolute control.

 
TorqByte Software Pictured Above

Water Meth systems can be had for an affordable entry-level price, and with a couple of add-ons you can really make a custom fit kit that suits your needs. Or you can go hog wild and spend a small fortune on controllers, tanks, pumps, jets, etc. How far down the rabbit hole you go is entirely up to you.

If you live somewhere that has poor fuel quality, you can’t source other means to fuel the car like Ethanol or Race Gas and you just really need to make power. Water Meth Injection is your only remaining option. On an octane/methanol dependent tune, you’ll definitely want a more in depth set-up including safeties, fast acting valves, etc. For that style of application it’s best to get with your EQT sales rep and figure out what you need. 

Later on in the next article, we will discuss Best Practices, Tips and Tricks for setting up your Water Methanol Controller as the subject can get fairly in-depth depending on your setup.

Nozzles are luckily one of the most simple components of the Water Methanol Injection system. Many manufacturers rate them in either cc's (cubic centimeters) or ml (milliliters) per minute which corresponds to how much fluid they can spray at their maximum rated pressure.

Aquamist, a leading manufacturer in the UK rates their nozzles/jets in CC/Min and provides a graph of their flow characteristics. Typically Aquamist advertised flow ratings are at 150psi of pump pressure. So you can see how if you do too much mixing and matching you may not know what the flow rate may be. 

Ex: Aquamist jets rated at 150psi, with a Snow Performance Ultra-High Output (UHO) pump being driven at 300psi

Most manufactures provide a reference guide regarding how big of a jet you would need for what your horsepower range is. However, there are times when you can end up in between sizes, at which point I would suggest you go bigger than you need if you have a progressive controller, and if you're using a static controller go to the smaller size. 

Snow Performance partnered with Nitrous Express a few years back and due to this joint venture, they've recently released new Nozzles/Jets which have a much wider range than they used to which makes jetting your WMI Kit a lot easier and precise. More on this later.

Fluid, finally. 

We mentioned above that we would loop back around to washer fluid when discussing tanks and using the OE Washer tank. YES, you can use windshield washer fluid. That's the question you were all waiting for. Yes, you can use it, but the more important question is should you use it?

Typically, Blue washer fluid is 30% methanol by volume, 68% water, and 2% other. It’s the 2% part that we need to pay attention to. The blue dye in washer fluid can crystalize and lead to a clog in the system, which if your tune is depending on that methanol to increase octane then it's not worth the gamble in my professional opinion. (WMI Dependent tuning covered in Part 1)

When I originally started playing with methanol I didn't want to shell out for the name-brand good stuff, the cost of a 5-gallon pail was a bit much for my budget and VP M1 is not cheap. (at least where I live) so I was using washer fluid and “spiking” it with three bottles of Yellow Heet. (which is 100% Methanol by the way)

Some of the WMI companies have said that in a pinch if you need to make a 50/50 solution and cant source pure methanol and distilled water, or Boost Juice (A Snow Performance product) then you can substitute in a gallon of blue washer fluid with three 12oz bottles of heet and it will get you there. While it works in a pinch, I've found that the dye and whatever else they put into washer fluid leaves this crusty residue throughout the system and I wouldn’t advise using it if you don’t absolutely have to.

Methanol has another name that may make it easier to find, some call it just "Methyl Alcohol" which is what you will find on the back of a bottle of Heet on its label.

Often times you can source what is called "Farm Grade" Methanol from your local commercial chemical store or tractor/truck supply store. Farm grade methanol is 99.99% pure while VP Racing M1 is a higher purity. And for the sake of auxiliary injection and not being a primary fuel source such as a Blown Alcohol Funny Car, it's not really important how pure it is as long as it’s Methanol.

Other chemicals can be substituted in place of Methanol such as Isopropyl/Denatured Alcohol, but it’s much less effective and smell absolutely awful. 

Ideally, you'll want to source a 5-gallon pail of pure methanol and mix your own 50/50 solution using distilled water, or for sake of ease, you can purchase Snow Performance Boot Juice which is fully legal to be shipped and doesn't require any special treatment as it's 51% water, 49% methanol.

But keep this in mind, the convenience comes at a price, 51% water read that again. If a gallon of Boost Juice costs $5, you're paying $2.50 for half a gallon of water. You decide which route is more cost-effective for you.

Now that we've discussed all the individual components or at least the major key components of a Water Methanol System the next article is going to discuss tips and tricks, best practices, and how to set up your controller for your setup so stay tuned for that! 

Part 3 should be the Conclusion of this WMI Series.

Thanks for Reading!

- Dave At EQT

EQT suggests that when servicing the DSG Transmission that only Genuine VW/Audi fluid be used.

Make sure to verify with your local VW Dealership which part number oil is correct for your application as there have previously been two different oils for 6-speed DSG transmissions than 7-Speed DSG transmissions.

Make sure that after a DSG Service that you perform a DSG Relearn procedure.

DSG Relearn Procedure FAQ

Yes!We do have a Technical Blog.

It can be found here

If you're interested in becoming an EQT Dealer, please submit our application form located here and one of our staff will reach back out to you.If you have questions about becoming an EQT dealer or what the requirements are you can also email the Wholesale Team.

20wholesale@eqtuning.com">Send Email

All prices on the website are listed in USD.

The MQB Volkswagens and Audis are capable of operating in either All-Wheel Drive or Front-Wheel Drive so you have some choices.In terms of booking a dyno, it will greatly depend on what the nearest dyno facility has available

If they have an AWD dyno make sure that it is a LINKED dyno. Meaning a large belt links the front and rear rollers together.

NOTE: Most DynoComs are NOT linked, while most Mustangs are linked. So a Mustang dyno would be ideal if you're going to run it in AWD, if not Mustang then any other linked system should be sufficient. Make sure to confirm with your dyno facility if their AWD dyno is linked or unlinked. They should know this information off hand

If 2WD dynos are more prevalent in your area then a DynoJet would be fine. Try to avoid hub dynos as they tend to be a bit more finicky to get set up correctly for your vehicle and may read inaccurate or have issues with the load cell which may cause delays or other issues.While there is nothing inherently wrong with Hub Dyno's, they do take some care and attention to get set up that chassis dynos do not.

If you're unsure how to make the car operate in FWD mode it's fairly easy. Under your back seat, there is a connector on the driver side of the car attached to a plastic cover that protects the siphon pump. That connector should go directly to your Haldex Controller and when it is unplugged the vehicle will operate in front-wheel drive.

NOTE: Your dashboard is going to throw a ton of lights at you until it is reconnected and the ignition cycled, but it's nothing to worry about.

While Audi designed the car to run in FWD and AWD, it expects to do so via the Haldex control module and not the owner unplugging a connector. You will NOT damage your car or the AWD components by disconnecting this plug.

You may however damage your AWD system by running the car in AWD mode on a non-linked dyno.

Regardless of what dyno you choose to use make sure to follow our basics on Dyno Guidelines which can be found HERE.

While EQT does not directly offer Affirm or other payment/finance services, the Affirm Virtual Card is a great option! 

It's basically a "Temporary Credit Card" which can be used at checkout once approved through Affirm and can be used just like a normal card at any of your favorite stores including EQT.

For more information click the link below!

What is an Affirm Virtual Card?

When adding a wastegate actuator to any turbo package offered by EQT, it is important to know the orientation of your setup so we can install and calibrate your new wastegate actuator to work with your vehicle. Below is an example to show you which wastegate you have. IS38 orientation has the connector plug towards the turbo outlet (motor side), whereas the IS20 orientation is towards the turbo inlet (firewall). It is important to note that not all IS38 turbos have the same orientation, so it is critical to check your specific setup. 

We have an article in our technical blog specifically written for checking boost leaks. You can find that article by following this link: 

https://eqtuning.com/blogs/technical-write-ups/testing-for-boost-leaks

We will strive to meet our personal customer service goals of:

*** 48-72 hours for US Market staged ECU and DSG tunes (weekends and holidays not included)
*** Custom tunes are roughly 2 weeks until your first starter map email, and revisions 1-2 weeks thereafter, live session to knock out all revisions in 1 day can be scheduled once the car is established to be responding well and mechanically sound.

*** World Market staged tunes can vary and usually take a longer time as a lot of times a whole from scratch map needs to be made.

Please note that while we always try and hit this mark, there are sometimes things that are beyond our control, which lead to longer lead-times than normal. In some cases, staged tunes can take up to 3-5 days and custom tunes can take 3 weeks to begin, while revisions can take as many as 10 business days. Customers are served in the order received. Inquiries can be directed to sales@eqtuning.com for current wait times, and other information. We will also post delays and updates in our Facebook Group. CHECK YOUR SPAM FOLDERS! Sometimes, our correspondence ends up in customer spam folders, especially when there are tunes attached. Please ensure the following email addresses are safe senders in your email settings.

patrick@eqtuning.com

tuning@eqtuning.com

support@eqtuning.com

sales@eqtuning.com

To help protect both us and our customers from fraud or the potential of fraud, we are highly reluctant to ship to any address other than the billing address without proper proof of residency.

If you have recently moved and not yet updated your billing information, please reach out to customer support prior to placing your order so proper proof of residency can be established.

If your billing address is your place of business and you are looking to ship to your personal residence or vice versa, proof of residency required.

If the order is a gift for a friend or relative, please reach out to customer support at sales@eqtuning.com prior to placing your order.

Without proof of residency EQT will NOT be able to ship to an address other than your billing address to help protect both you and us from potential fraud. EQT will ultimately determine if an alternate address can be shipped to or not. Note that Packages can always be held and picked up at your local UPS location.

If a mismatch is found between your billing and mailing address your order may be held and delayed until additional information or proof of residency is provided.